1940 Ford E-Brake - Easy E-Brake Leveraging Any Hand Operated Brake Assembly

1940 Ford E-Brake - Easy E-Brake Leveraging Any Hand Operated Brake Assembly

Posted by Kyle Madsen on 23rd Mar 2014

Parking Brake Setup Insights for Street Rod Builders

Street rod builders have used many hand-operated parking brake systems over the years. Some preferred the classic 1940 Ford under-dash lever for its period-correct look, while others opted for compact floor-mounted units from Pinto or Vega models. The under-dash style keeps the cabin cleaner, though adapting it into earlier vehicles takes added fabrication. Low-profile floor units are simple to mount on a tunnel or flat floor, but their short handles can demand more physical effort—something many drivers notice right away.

While this article references a ’40 Ford pickup, the approach applies to a wide range of vehicle projects across both B2B fabrication shops and B2C hobbyists.

Initial Setup and Cable Routing

The truck used here features a standard 9-inch Ford rear end with its original parking brake cable loop still in place. The wheelbase on a ’40 pickup is long enough to retain the full loop without cutting the OEM cable. Trimming and splicing factory cables often leads to frustration and messy repairs, so keeping the full length in this case was a benefit.

To support the routing, a small crossmember was fabricated from 1x1 steel tubing. While not intended for sanctioned racing rules, it serves as a basic driveshaft safety support and provides a clean mounting point for the rear cable housing ends. Once this was positioned, the forward centerline of the cable loop was established, giving a reliable reference point for measuring the length of the front parking brake cable.

Selecting a Modern Cable Assembly

An original 1940 Ford cable was available, but it wasn’t the right fit for this build. The steel-wrapped outer housing on those cables, though sturdy, does not cooperate with routing around modern hot rod components—large exhaust systems, automatic transmissions, and tight engine bays.

A modern cable assembly provides smoother bends, better travel, and the ability to order the exact length and end fittings needed. In past projects, including a Bonneville car, the team had success sourcing assemblies from Control Cables, so that choice carried over here.

The original cable was too long for this project, so accurate measurements were taken before ordering a replacement. Taking time to measure properly avoids the waste and hassle of incorrect lengths.

Adding a Leverage Bar for Improved Operation

To increase the pulling strength of the hand brake, the team used a simple leverage bar system. Older vehicles from the ’50s and ’60s sometimes used a similar approach, with a bar anchored at the chassis and pulled by the front parking brake cable.

Since sourcing an original bar wasn't possible, a custom version was made from 1-inch-wide, 1/4-inch-thick steel strap. One end of the strap was bolted to the bottom flange of the right rear leg of the ’40 X-member. The mounting spot was chosen after fitting a front hoop to the rear cable loop, adding a 4-inch adjuster bolt, and determining where the bar needed to sit.

With the bar installed at the proper angle—roughly 90 degrees to the truck’s centerline—the team could measure the cable length required from the hand-brake pivot to the mounting plate on the reinforced X-member. After several checks, they settled on a 65-inch cable with 4 inches of travel. A 5/16-inch fine thread was chosen so the original ’40 yoke could be used.

Control Cables supplied the custom assembly for about $35.60, which was less than sourcing early Ford outer and inner cables. The new cable arrived with smooth bends, clean crimps, and a well-finished housing.

Tuning the Leverage Bar for Correct Feel

The effectiveness of this style of bar depends on where the rear cables attach. The closer the attachment point is to the pivot, the more mechanical advantage is created—but travel distance shortens. Drilling several holes along the bar gives builders the ability to test different positions and dial in the right amount of pull strength and cable movement.

This approach provides a consistent, smooth emergency parking brake feel without resorting to stiff factory housings or makeshift splicing.